Climbing the Matterhorn in 5 days Course

The ascent of the Matterhorn is one the most beautiful and dramatic challenges in an alpinist's lifetime.

Its summit is one of the world's most recognizable peaks, and climbing the Matterhorn has long mesmerized those who love the mountains.

Climbing Matterhorn is not technically difficult, however the ascent demands that you have had previous rock climbing experience.

 

Climb Matterhorn in 5 Days Itinerary

Subject to change depending on weather / mountain conditions and participants' fitness.

Day 1: Almageller Hut

Ascent from the village of Saas Almagell to Almageller hut. Night in hut.

On the Dri Horlini ridge

 

Day 2: Travers of the Dri Horlini

A pleasant ridge crossing on excellent rock with several grade IV sections.

It's a short day, with around 4 hours climbing, in a spectacular setting surrounded by neighbouring summits.

It's an excellent way to revise rope skills and get accustomed to the rock. Night at Almageller hut.

Beginning of Dri Horlini ridge

 

Day 3: Weissmies traverse south ridge - north side

We have a very early start to reach Zwischebergenpass (3268m) where we start climbing the south ridge. Climbing sections up to grade III, occasionally IV, with a few superb aerial passages.

From the summit the view of all the famous Valais peaks is magnificent: Mont Rose, Weisshorn, Dom de Mischabels to name a few.

We descend by the south ridge, with sections up to grade III. This ridgeline is good training for the Matterhorn.

From the Weissmies hut we take the cable car into the valley and the village of Saas Almagell. We go via Saas Grund to Taesch by bus / car. Night at hotel.

Time: around 10 hours

climbing south ridge of Weissmies

 

Day 4: Hornli

Lie in! We take the train from Taesch to Zermatt and continue on the Schwarzee cable car to the Hornli hut (3260m).

We will have a well needed rest in the afternoon before attempting the Matterhorn.

Time: 2-3 hours

Altitude covered: +680m

morning sky on swiss alps, Matterhorn 5 day course

 

Day 5: Ascent of the Matterhorn

A 3am start. The path starts easy, then gradually turns into a series of climbs and switchbacks before reaching the Solvay hut.

There are some more rocky stretches before we reach the snow line. Fixed ropes are there to aid the climbing on the ice and snow, which although not technically challenging, can be hard work at this altitude.

A snowy crest brings you to the summit of the Matterhorn. After you have taken some photos, the descent is via the same route back down to the valley. From here we drive back to Chamonix.

Time: 10-12 hours

Altitude covered: +1218m / -1800m

Standing on the Matterhorn summit after a 5 day course

Note:

If you have a serious mountaineering experience, and wish to climb Matterhorn in 2 days, please call us.

We will ask you a list of climbs during the last two years, and one day climb with your guide will be required before.

 

Matterhorn 5 day course pricing information

Cost: €4370 (based on 2 persons)

Price is based on a group of 2 persons, with 1 guide from day 1 to day 3.

1 guide per person for Matterhorn ascent day 4 and 5.

The price includes:

  • Organisation
  • High mountain guide for 5 days, 1 from day 1 to day 3, 2 for day 4 to day 5. (Matterhorn ascent)
  • Full board from day 1 breakfast, to day 5 lunch (except breakfast and diner in Taesch)
  • Equipment provided by guide (ropes, carabiners, etc.)
  • Train / taxi from Taesch – Zermatt
  • Descent in Weissmies cable car
  • Schwarzee cable car

The price does not include:

  • Transport to meeting place (car sharing is possible)
  • Breakfast and dinner at Taesch
  • Personal gear hire
  • Personal expenses (drinking water in huts, energy bars, phone calls)
  • Single room supplement
  • Extra charges arising from program changes

Insurance (for Europeans only):

  • Option 1 Search and rescue: +1.6 %
  • Option 2 Cancellation, luggage, delays, civil liability: 3.5%
  • Option 3: Option 1 + Option 2: 4.6%

Book now your ascent of the Matterhorn

 

Matterhorn 5 day course additional information

Technical level

  • You need to have had experience of high mountain climbs at level PD - AD
  • Snow and ice gradients of 35° to 45°
  • Easy rock climbing, level 3 to 4+ in high mountain or more on rock climbing wall

Please send us a summary of your climbing and mountaineering experience so we can be sure of your competence.

Fitness level

  • Daily altitude range of up to 1400m. Days lasting 10 to 12 hours
  • Excellent fitness required

Changes to the program

  • The guide reserves the right to change the program according to participants' capacity, weather, and conditions on the mountain
  • In cases where a participant's capacity does not meet the required level, we will offer an alternative itinerary or add a second guide for the ascent of the Matterhorn (at additional cost)
  • On request, it is also possible to traverse from the Arête du Hornlï to the Arête du Lyon. This adds a day to the program - please ask for a quote

Your guide

  • High mountain guide
  • UIAGM qualified
  • English-speaking

Duration

  • 5 days/4 nights

Meeting point

Meet your guide at 9am on day 1 in front of the SNELL Sports shop, 104 rue Paccard (main pedestrian street), Chamonix for a briefing and gear check.

Access

  • By train (SNCF): Chamonix train station
  • By plane: Geneva airport is the closest, from where there are regular buses and airport transfers direct to Chamonix

Accommodation

  • In catered huts, and a hotel in Taech
  • There is bottled drinking water only in huts, for purchase. Ensure you have cash (Swiss francs) to buy some
  • If you need accommodation before or after your tour, ask us in advance and we can advise or book it for you

Meals

  • Breakfast and dinner are provided in the huts
  • Packed lunches are provided, which you carry. Normally includes ham, bread, cheese, cake, chocolate
  • We advise you to bring your own snacks too (e.g. energy bars, dried fruit and nuts, nothing heavy or squashable)
  • Vegetarian menu available on request

Documents

  • Passport / ID card

Gear

  • You will be sent the MOUNTAINEERING LIST
  • Plus: climbing shoes
  • Supplied safety and group gear: ropes and safety gear

Book now your ascent of the Matterhorn