Climb Mont Blanc in 4 Days course

This 4 days climb Mont Blanc course is designed for people who have previous mountaineering experience (alpine grade F/PD), and are very fit (you need to be in good physical shape and practice sports regularly).

There will be one training day to refresh crampon, ice axe and ropework skills on the glacier before we climb Mont Blanc.

We take the classic "Gouter" route, via the tramway to the Nid d’Aigle (Eagle’s Nest), from where we will climb up to the Tete Rousse refuge. The Mont Blanc summit bid will either be from here or the Gouter refuge.

Mont Blanc 4 day course highlights

  • One day ice climbing and revision of climbing and safety techniques on the Mer de Glace
  • Summit Mont Blanc on day 3 and descend on day 4 from the Gouter hut, avoiding extremely early starts and and the ascent/descent in one day
  • ​If the weather is bad on day 3, then we have an additional opportunity to summit on day 4

Itinerary for the Mont Blanc 4 Days Course

The Night before, meet with your guide at the hotel Pointe Isabelle in Chamonix for a briefing and gear check.

Your guide will bring you your gear you have requested from us, or accompany you if you need to purchase or rent boots or any additional gear. Your night in the hotel, with breakfast, is included

Day 1: Training day, night in Chamonix

Breakfast at the hotel.
Training day on the mountain or glacier to refine our climbing skills, ropework, crampon and ice-axe use.
Night in the hotel in Chamonix.

ice and snow exercise during the first day of the Mont Blanc course

 

Day 2: Nid d’Aigle to the Tête Rousse hut

Take the tramway up to the Nid d'Aigle (Eagle’s Nest) at 2300m, followed by a 3-4 hour hike up to the Tête Rousse glacier.
Dinner and night in the Tête Rousse hut (3167m).
Altitude covered: +700 m
Diner and night in Tete Rousse hut (3800m).

Ibex on Tete Rousse refuge during one 4 day Mont Blanc course

 

Day 3: Ascent of Mont Blanc, back down to the Gouter hut

The longest day of around 10 hours. A 5am start over the Tete Rousse glacier, to reach the famous Gouter couloir.

Rock scrambling will be required on the aiguille du Gouter until the Gouter hut where we can have a short rest.

We then climb the Dome de Gouter and continue up to the Vallot Hut. From here we arrive at the first technical steep slope on the Mont Blanc.

The second slope is easier technically, but we will need to be motivated to counteract the effects of the altitude and fatigue before climbing the final ridge to the Mont Blanc summit.

At the summit we give you enough time to look at the view over the Western Alps, take photos, catch our breath, and congratulate each other!

The descent of the Mont Blanc is via the same route, to reach the Gouter hut where we'll spend the night.

Please note the Gouter and Tete Rousse huts are interchangable, depending on when we are able to get reservations.

Altitude covered: + 1700 m / - 1000 m
Diner and night in Gouter hut (3800m).

Refuge Valot and Mont Blanc summit from the Dome du Gouter

 

Day 4: Descent of Mont Blanc

A short and relatively easy day. Breakfast will be at 7 am.

We then start our descent of the aiguille du Gouter; a straightforward descent having well rested the night before.

Brief stop at the Tete Rousse hut for a drink before heading down to the Nid d'aigle train. Cable car to les Houches and back to Chamonix.

Presentation of your Mont Blanc achievement certificate over a well deserved drink!

Altitude covered: - 1400 m

Sunset on Dome du Gouter during a 4 day Mont Blanc course

 

We have refined this schedule which we genuinely believe is the best way to climb Mont Blanc, for a number of reasons:

  • You are not obliged to wake up in the middle of the night to commence the ascent
  • You are climbing in daylight for the most part when it is lighter and warmer
  • You descend the Aiguille de Gouter having rested and recuperated overnight
  • If bad weather is forecast for day 3, we'll reach the Gouter hut and make our summit bid day 4. This will give an additional chance to reach the summit.

We strongly suggest you plan an extra day in Chamonix at the end in case we have to shift our summit day due to weather.

 

Cost of the Mont Blanc Climb in 4 day: 1580€ per person

We need a minimum of 2 persons to run this course. There is no extra charge if the group is not completed.

If you a private group, please get in touch as we are able to offer tailor-made courses with choice of date and duration.

Cost includes:

  • Organisation of the trip
  • UIAGM certified high mountain guide
  • All accommodation (4 nights)
  • All meals except dinner in Chamonix day 1
  • All transport within the Chamonix valley
  • Safety equipment provided by your guide (rope, ice screws, etc)
  • Tramway / cablecars

Cost does not include:

  • Transport to and from Chamonix before and after the course
  • Dinner in Chamonix on day 1
  • Personal expenses (drinks in the refuges for you and your guide, additional snacks, etc)
  • Personal equipment and clothing (equipment can be hired from CMBG, please ask)
  • Single room supplement
  • Alpine climbing insurance
  • Gratuities

 

Mont Blanc 4 day course additional information

Technical info

We will be climbing snow and ice up to 40 degrees. Basic rock climbing (grade II and III) in some sections.

The climb to the Goûter hut can be described as a rock scramble. Rock climbing is a real advantage.

We ask you to send us a list of previous high mountain climb in the last 3 years prior your departure! If you don't have any, choose our 6 days program!

In case of lack of experience, the guide will be able to stop your course!

Fitness

There will be 6 to 8 hours of walking per day, 12 hours for Mont Blanc summit day, with vertical climbs of between 800 and 1700m.

Excellent fitness is therefore required. Please arrive fit; the first three days are not to get in shape!

Changes to the program

Options if bad weather is forecast on day 3:

  • Day 2: Tete Rousse hut
  • Day 3: Gouter hut ascent. Sleep in Gouter hut
  • Day 4: Mont Blanc ascent and descent to Tete rousse and Chamonix valley

Your guide will choose between these options:

  • Gran Paradiso (4060m) in Italy if there is a bad weather on Mont Blanc Range, with no refund.
  • Staying in Chamonix a few extra days while waiting for better weather. We highly recommend you to take an extra day in case of bad weather, to be able to move one day. This option is available only if we can get place in the hut.Your guide may change. Extra cost at Chamonix will be at your charge (hotel meals, etc)
  • Stop the course after three days, and receive a credit towards your next attempt.

Your guide

  • High mountain guide (UIAGM qualified).
  • 1 guide between 2-6 clients for the first training day
  • 1 guide between 2 clients for the Mont Blanc ascent

Accommodation

In mountain refuges, and a 3 or 4* hotel in Chamonix (usually the Pointe Isabelle). If you require accommodation the night before or after your tour, just let us know.

There is no tap water in the refuges, so please budget for the purchase of bottled water.

For the Gouter and Tête Rousse refuges, due to intense demand the accommodation needs to be reserved in advance, preferably by mid-April.

We may have to be flexible with regards to sleeping arrangement depending on when the booking is made (e.g. 2 nights at the Tete Rousse if the Gouter is full).

Meals

Half board (dinner and breakfast) provided in the refuges.

Hearty packed lunches are provided, which you carry.

You can bring your own extra snacks, e.g. energy bars, dried fruit and nuts. Don't bring anything heavy, or things which might squash, leak or spoil.

Vegetarian options available on request.

Documents

You will need to bring an identity card or passport.