Climb the Matterhorn in 4 days

Climb the Matterhorn in 4 Days Itinerary

Subject to change depending on weather / mountain conditions and participants' fitness.

Day 0: Gear check at Hotel Pointe Isabelle in the evening with your guide

Day 1: Arête sud de la Chapelle de la Glière

This day will be a warm-up / test day.

Ascent by cable car the Index (Flegere) to reach the south ridge of the classic route on the Chapel de la  Glière. Beautiful ascent that we will do in approach shoes to get used to climbing at altitude.

If you have already done this climb, we will choose an alternative.

Night in Hotel «La Pointe Isabelle» in Chamonix.

Day 2: Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248 m

Today we are going to test our ice and snow technic by climbing the Mont Blanc du Tacul from the Aiguille du Midi cable car. In the same way it will be an excellent acclimatation day as the top is at 4248 m and we'll spend the day above 3500 m. The climb is not really difficult but it will be an excellent opportunity to test your ice climbing skills as you need an excellent technic for the last 300 m of the Matterhorn. 
We will take the same way back and forth from the cable car. Night in Chamonix valley at the hôtel Pointe Isabelle.

Day 3: Hornli

Drive from Chamonix , followed by taking the train from Taesch to Zermatt,  from the top of the Schwarzee cable car we hike up to the Hornli hut (3260m).

We will have a rest in the afternoon in order to prepare for the Matterhorn.

Time: 2-3 hours climb

Altitude covered: +680m

Day 4: Ascent of the Matterhorn

A 3am start. The path starts easy, then gradually turns into a series of climbs and switchbacks before reaching the Solvay hut.

There are some more rocky stretches before we reach the snow line. Fixed ropes are there to aid the climbing on the ice and snow, which although not technically challenging, can be hard work at this altitude.

A snowy crest brings you to the summit of the Matterhorn. After you have taken some photos, the descent is via the same route back down to the valley. From here we drive back to Chamonix.

Time: 10-12 hours climb

Altitude covered: +1218m / -1800m

Note: If you wish to traverse the Matterhorn, it is possible and we will do it from Hornli hutte to Lyon's ridge on the way down. There will be extra cost for lift pass and guide's fee, approx 250€.

Technical level required to climb Matterhorn

• You need to have had experience of multipitch high mountain climbs at French grade IV (UK level AD) with mountain boots
• Snow and ice gradients of 35° to 45°, a good experience on crampon is required.
• If you have only climbed Mont Blanc you must take few more days to rock climb.
   

If in doubt, send us a summary of your climbing and mountaineering experience so we can discuss the correct course for your level.

Fitness level required to climb Matterhorn

• Daily altitude range of up to 1400m. Days lasting 10 to 12 hours climb
• Excellent fitness required
   

The climb of Matterhorn requires excellent fitness as we must keep a pace to be on top not too late, usually between 4 to 5 hours max to the top. Keep in mind that the way down is longer and harder than the way up and requires more energy!

You must get used to climb down in grade III.

Changes to the program

The guide reserves the right to change the program according to participants' capacity, weather, and conditions on the mountain.

In cases where a participant's capacity does not meet the required level, we will offer an alternative itinerary or add a second guide for the ascent of the Matterhorn (at additional cost).

On request, it is also possible to traverse from the Arête du Hornlï to the Arête du Lyon. This adds a day to the program - please ask for a quote.

Duration

• 4 days / 4 nights

Meeting point

The evening before at approx 6.30 pm (will be confirmed based on clients' arrival time) at Pointe Isabelle hotel reception.

Access

• By train (SNCF): Chamonix train station
• By plane: Geneva airport is the closest, from where there are regular buses and airport transfers direct to Chamonix

Accommodation

In catered huts, and hotel Pointe Isabelle in Chamonix, avenue de la Gare.

In huts they only have bottled drinking water. Ensure you have cash (Swiss francs) to buy some.

If you need accommodation before or after your tour, ask us in advance and we can advise or book it for you.

Meals

• Breakfast and dinner are provided in the huts
• Packed lunches are provided, which you carry. Normally includes ham, bread, cheese, cake, chocolate
• We advise you to bring your own snacks too (e.g. energy bars, dried fruit and nuts, nothing heavy or squashable)
• Vegetarian menu available on request

Gear

• You will be sent the equipment list once your book
• Plus: climbing shoes
• Equipment supplied: ropes and safety gear

Climb the Matterhorn in 4 days - Pricing and Availability information

• €3040 (based on 2 persons) 1:2 guide:client ratio on day 1 & 2,  then 1:1 guide:client ratio for the Matterhorn ascent days 3 and 4
• €3605 (based on 1 person) 1:1 guide:client ratio for all 4 days
• Different dates  / routes/ programs available over 3 / 4/ 5 days , get in touch to get organized!

The price includes:

• Organisation
• High mountain guides for 4 days, 1 for day 1 and 2, 2 for days 3-4 (Matterhorn ascent)
• 3 nights B&B, D0,D1 and D2 in hotel*** in Chamonix as in shared twin room
• 1 night HB D3 in Hornli Hut
• 4 picnics
• Safety equipment provided by guide (ropes, carabiners, etc.)
• Train / taxi from Taesch – Zermatt
• Schwarzee cable car one way
• Aiguille du Midi and Flégère - Index  Cable car
• Transport from Chamonix to Zermatt

The price does not include:

• Transport to Chamonix
• Diner on day 0,1, 2
• Personal gear hire
• Personal expenses (drinking water in huts, energy bars, phone calls)
• Single room supplement
• Extra charges arising from program changes
• Insurance (we can provide for EU residents, please enquire)

NOTE: in case of cancellation for any reason, especially weather, the Hornli hut will still keep 50 € per person booking fee. Therefore these fees are not reimbursable.