The night before starting the climb of Mont Blanc, at approx 6.30 pm (will be confirmed based on clients' arrival time), meet with your guide at a Hotel*** in Chamonix for a briefing and gear check.
Your guide will bring the gear you requested, or accompany you if you need to purchase or rent boots or any additional gear. Your night in the hotel, with breakfast, is included.
Day 0: Gear check and briefing with your guide at the reception of your Hotel***
Day 1: Snow & ice technical skills, Albert Premier hut
From the top of the Balme chairlift, you'll be learning ice and snow climbing basics on the Tour glacier with crampons, ice axes and ropes.
Steep-slope security and crevasse rescue will also be covered.
In the afternoon, hike to the Albert 1er hut at 2702m.
Altitude covered: + 570m
Dinner and night in Albert Premier hut.
Day 2: Climbing & acclimatisation, Chamonix
A day of stunning views as we head towards the col Blanc, crossing a 50 degree slope to emerge between the Petite Fourche and the summit of the Tête Blanche.
Following the Fenêtre de Saleina and Fenêtre Supérieure du Tour we descend the Tour glacier and take a chairlift down to the village of le Tour.
Altitude covered: + 530 m and –873 m
Back to Chamonix for a good night's sleep in the Hotel.
Day 3: Nid d’Aigle to the Tête Rousse hut
Take the tramway up to the Nid d'Aigle (Eagle’s Nest) at 2300m, then a 3 hour hike up to the Tête Rousse glacier.
Dinner and night in the Tête Rousse hut (3167m).
Day 4: Ascent of Mont Blanc, back down to the Gouter hut
The longest day of around 10 hours.
A 5am start over the Tete Rousse glacier, to reach the famous Gouter couloir.
Rock scrambling will be required on the aiguille du Gouter until the Gouter hut where we 'll have a short rest.
We climb the Dome du Gouter and then continue to the Vallot Hut where we can stop for a drink and snack.
We then climb the first technical steep slope on the Mont Blanc. The second slope is easier technically, but we will need to be motivated to counteract the effects of the altitude and fatigue before climbing the final ridge to the Mont Blanc summit.
At the summit we generally allow 15 minutes to stand on the top of Europe, look at the view over the Western Alps, catch our breath, and congratulate each other!
The descent of the Mont Blanc is via the same route, to reach the Gouter hut where we'll have dinner and spend the night.
Please note the Gouter and Tete Rousse huts are interchangable, depending on when we are able to get reservations.
Altitude covered: + 1700 m / - 1000 m
Day 5: Descent of Mont Blanc
An easy and short day as we are well rested. Breakfast will be at 7am.
We then start our descent of the aiguille du Gouter, which will be straighforward after a good night's sleep.
Brief stop at the Tete Rousse hut for a drink after which we head down to the Nid d'Aigle train. Cable car to les Houches and back to our hotel or wherever you are staying.
Your guide will present you with your Mont Blanc achievement certificate, normally over a well-deserved drink!
Altitude covered: - 2435 m
We have refined this schedule which we genuinely believe is the best way to climb Mont Blanc, for a number of reasons:
- You are not obliged to wake up in the middle of the night to commence the ascent
- You will be climbing during the day giving you extra light and warmer conditions
- You will descend the aiguille du Gouter having rested and recuperated
If bad weather is forecast for day 5, we have the option to make our summit bid on day 6 instead, from the Gouter hut.
A bird eye view of your Mont Blanc route